Tartan and tweeds

Alastair wearing the Dougarie Estate Tweed

Originally tweeds were associated with Scottish or Irish clans and was made of a very rough, and almost felted, woven wool material. These tweeds associated to names are known as tartans. This later developed into a hard wearing cloth, generally for the working man, and was used to identify groups of people linked to a particular land owner or Estate (it could be compared or considered the forerunner to denim!); when the owner couldn’t claim a right to use a tartan they designed their own tweed. Many modern tweeds have developed into a more refined cloth and include luxurious wools such as cashmere and mohair.

Dougarie Estate Tweed

The name ‘tweed’ is thought to have been derived from the word twilled or tweeled (the Scottish version of twilled). Twilled is a method of weaving where the weaves are stronger and create a diagonal pattern in the cloth. The conversion of the name from tweeled to tweed appears to originate from a London Merchant in 1830 who misread some handwriting and advertised the cloth as ‘tweed’.  The name has stuck ever since.


A more colourful tweed

Tweed continues to be favoured by Scottish Estates and provides a tough, wind and water resistant fabric for anyone involved with country sports. Water resistance is provided by the outer part of the fabric absorbing a small amount of water and swelling, hence keeping the inner dry. The designs are created so that they blend with the mountain surroundings, providing camouflage for stalkers and shooters alike. Despite the need for camouflage there is an amazing array of colours used in the weaves. The Dougarie Estate tweed was designed by Haggarts of Aberfeldy for Mr Gibbs in 1974. This tweed blends well with the mountain surroundings encountered during the main sporting season.  Bolts of fabric are made up into traditional sporting clothing of jackets, breeches, waistcoat and hats.  The breeches are known as ‘plus-fours’.  Plus fours extend 4 inches below the knee and give a greater freedom of movement, particularly when climbing upwards, than plus twos (2” below knee) or knickerbockers (knee length).

There are over 200 different Estate tweeds most of which are detailed in a book by Johnstons of Elgin.